Chanel went underground for its latest Métiers d’Art presentation, transforming a decommissioned platform at Manhattan’s Old Bowery station into the house’s first New York subway runway. Guests entered through a recreated station entrance at 168 Bowery, complete with tiled walls, turnstiles, and a custom Chanel newspaper kiosk. Only after descending the staircase did they realize the set was real MTA infrastructure, not a stage-build illusion.

A train pulled in and models stepped out as the classic announcement “Stand clear of the closing doors please” echoed across the platform. This marked Chanel’s first New York show since 2018 and Matthieu Blazy’s first Métiers d’Art collection for the house. His concept centered on everyday New York style rather than the grand mythology of the city’s landmarks.

The front row included A$AP Rocky, Kristen Stewart, Ayo Edebiri, Tilda Swinton, and Sofia Coppola. Their presence reinforced the cinematic atmosphere of the setting, which felt more like a vérité film scene than a glossy fashion spectacle.

The collection mixed Chanel signatures with winks to New York life. Tweed coats drifted between uptown polish and downtown ease. Movie-poster printed trenches referenced the city’s film culture. Embroidered denim, a Blazy hallmark, appeared as couture-level streetwear. Playful nods to “I ❤️ NY” found their way into accessories and knits without slipping into parody.

Chanel has a long history with New York. Coco Chanel’s first visit in the 1930s inspired her when she saw copies of her designs on local racks. Blazy cited this moment as a reminder that Chanel style thrives on the street as much as in salons. Showing Métiers d’Art in the subway felt like a contemporary continuation of that story.

The finale gathered the entire cast on the platform before guests exited back into the city. It was a brief but striking statement: Chanel can honor its atelier heritage while meeting New York exactly where it lives, in all its grit, charm, and possibility.