Atera

The wine director Matthew Abbick gives red Burgundy thirteen pages, white Burgundy ten and red Bordeaux seven, then keeps going through large formats, sherry and sweet wine before the spirits at the back. Every bottle carries a bin number.

The room sits below street level on Worth Street, between Church and Broadway, with most of the seats along a deep U-shaped bar facing the open kitchen. It takes parties of one to five, on a seasonal tasting menu at $325 with wine pairings another $218. Phone calls and flash photography are out.

Atera opened in 2012, in a space where a restaurant called Compose had run eight months, with Matthew Lightner cooking and a $150 ticket. Jodi Richard replaced him three years later with Ronny Emborg, then 32, out of elBulli, Mugaritz and Geranium and the kitchens of AOC and Marchal in Copenhagen. What Emborg calls the sensory kitchen leans on smell and color as much as taste.

His years here produced the cheese waffle with fermented mushrooms and truffle, and a series of caviar courses. The restaurant announced in August that he would leave at the end of the month, then said he would stay through December. He cooks here until then.