At Bar Cosme in NoHo, Guests Build Their Own Tacos
A comal burns at the center of a small room with a concrete bar, and guests build their own tacos from warm tortillas and the kitchen's salsas. Bar Cosme, a restaurant and cocktail bar from Enrique Olvera, the chef behind Pujol in Mexico City, and his group Casamata, opened on November 10 in the former Atla, at the corner of Great Jones and Lafayette Streets in NoHo.
Olvera opened Atla on the corner in 2017 as a more casual counterpart to Cosme, his Flatiron restaurant, which opened in 2014. Atla has since closed. Taller ADG, the Mexico City studio led by Alonso de Garay, designed the interiors of both Cosme and Atla.
At the comal
Seats run along the kitchen counter and the windows. Milton Revilla is chef de cuisine. The menu centers on seafood, raw and lightly cooked preparations, handmade tortillas and cooking over fire.
At the counter, dinner is a $135 prix fixe; the window seats order à la carte. The menu runs from oysters with jícama, lime and charred habanero to cod a la veracruzana and lamb belly in xintextle, and desserts include a corn husk meringue.
Behind the bar
Jorsand Diaz is beverage director. The cocktails stay with the classics. The shelves hold agave spirits and bourbon. On the wine list, older vintages sit next to bottles the team is curious about.
The address is 11 Great Jones Street.
