ATOMIX

An unmarked door on East 30th Street opens into a townhouse the Parks run on two levels, a small bar and lounge upstairs for cocktails and snacks, a steep staircase dropping to the basement dining room below, where a marble counter bends into a U around the open kitchen and seats fourteen. Studio Writers, a Seoul practice, drew the room and won a James Beard design award for it in 2019.

Junghyun Park cooks ten courses that turn over with the seasons, and through every version of the menu a rice course holds. Two seatings run each evening, at 5:30 and 8:45, $385 a head and paid in advance, while the upstairs bar keeps a shorter tasting of its own at $285. The wine list sets classic producers next to avant-garde ones, and corkage is $100 a bottle, two at most. Guest chefs have cooked at the counter since 2019, the first of them from Seoul. The most recent came in October 2025.

The menu itself arrives a card at a time. Each one sets out the dish's components and their origins, names the ceramics it is served on, and carries Park's note on the thinking behind it. A welcome card from the chef opens the meal and a farewell card from Ellia Park closes it. The stack goes home with the guest.